Beginnings

Beginnings

After an informal gathering of a few participants for dinner at an Ala Moana pub the night before, the PAA group (12 participants, 2 alternates and program directors) gathered at the entrance of Haunama Bay on the morning of Saturday, June 12 to begin the adventure of a lifetime, time on Midway Atoll. Everyone got their chance to introduce themselves and say a little about their interests, plans and projects for the upcoming week on the atoll. Then we were all led through a couple of hours of excellent basic instruction on snorkeling by Alan Hong, even though most were obviously well versed in such activity. Although we were only able to paddle around within the very inner part of the famous bay and could only examine briefly the shallow, very near shore, coralline-algal-encrusted relict reef, everyone got a nice introduction/reintroduction to Hawaii's beautiful, always inviting tropical marine water. Doesn't seem like anyone is going to be intimidated by similar settings at Midway; but, how similar is it? Time will tell. After lunch all were indoctrinated in Hawaiian protocol as we entered the PMNM Hawaii Kai office for an afternoon of brief presentations by both monument management staff as well as participants and alternates. Everyone was still gradually getting to know each other while they were gradually owning up to the reality that they were going to Midway. A great first day - it's a process.

Sunday, June 13th, the group really started to come together. Great PowerPoint presentations and videos on a wide variety of introductory topics were presented by the staff, all of which helped to continually build expectations of finally getting to the northernmost coralgal reef atoll complex on the planet. A great presentation was made on research presently being carried out on Midway and throughout the Northwest Islands of the Hawaiian Archipelago, much of which continues to solidify one of the main aspects of the essence of Hawaii, extreme isolation. By definition, when you're the most isolated, you're unique. It seems pretty obvious that if Charles Darwin had ventured by way of the Hawaiian Islands nearly 200 years ago, these islands would be the Galapagos of the planet.

Sunday afternoon was occupied primarily by an interesting, down and dirty work project. Gathering at the Paiko Wildlife Sanctuary along the shoreline of Maunalua Bay, we proceeded to remove invasive pickle weed and then replant a few natives. An amazing amount was accomplished in a relatively short span of time, but even more importantly the group was bonded even more closely together, especially with realization of similarities in goals and work ethics; a great group of talented individuals demonstrating their ability to do great things collectively. Days can't get much better than that.

Monday, June 14th ­ Departure Day. Well, not until late afternoon. The day began with a wonderful, behind the scenes, visit to the Bishop Museum, one of the country's best. We were privileged to be able to examine collections. I was really stoked to be able to see materials, notes, maps and artifacts from the famous 1923-4 Tanager Expeditions, the first real scientific explorations of the Northwest Hawaiian Islands. Items from Necker and Nihoa were displayed; we were allowed to photograph and even touch many of the artifacts. In addition were able to view some of collection of the thousands of native Hawaiian bowls, canoe models, weapons, tapa, pau, etc, etc, etc. At other locations were shown the extensive collections of thousands and thousands of invertebrates and ichthyologic specimens from Hawaii and the tropical Pacific. And finally we were provided time to wander through the wonderful displays of the museum open daily to the general public. What an inspiring place for which Hawaii must feel great pride.

Eventually the beginning had to end and the real journey had to begin. Participants were transported to the airport to first see if they made weight with their under 40 lbs of stuff. Seems like everyone made it. I as one of the hopeful alternates was sad to see all depart without me, but I felt the joy and excitement of the now well-bonded group of adventures. For me being involved in the introductions and meeting such a beautiful, talented group of people was quite a humbling experience, probably one that was somewhat necessary. I know now, more that ever, that I must get to Midway, one way or another.

Respectively submitted
­Chuck Blay

My Impressions

My Impressions (beyond Chuck's astute summary, below)
by Michelle Schwengel-Regala


As an alternate who didn't make it on the voyage this year, I'm writing this from my studio on O'ahu, holding the other participants in my thoughts for a safe and fulfilling journey. By going through the multifaceted orientation last weekend, I've come to understand a great deal more about this archipelago I call home. It didn't take long for me to realize that while we talked about plenty of science about the place, it seems that the cultural insights we discussed will be both grounding and driving forces behind our experiences. The words and concepts MAKA'ALA/to pay attention, 'IMI 'IKE/to search, KULEANA/our privilege and responsibility, MALAMA/to care for, among others will be significant motivating forces behind the way we interpret this place and will strongly influence the way we incorporate this experience into the rest of our lives and carry it forth to share with others. As much as we thought we had our projects figured out, one of the program's administrators warned us that "At the end of the experience, you will know why you're here. You think you know now, but at the end, you will KNOW." Even the weekend's worth of exploration gave me a different and clearer understanding of my mission, and I am looking forward to following the transformations of each member of our entire cohort. By stepping into the space to be open to this work, we are already changed by it, and for the better. I am humbled to be a part of this talented, dedicated, and inspiring group.

One small action that demonstrated the way our group is already working together was in negotiating our weight allocations. One member, Marion, was hoping to bring her guitar on the trip, but its weight plus her gear exceeded the 40# limit. Other members who had pounds to spare "gave" those to the guitar cause, and the guitar made it! I'm imagining sweet MELE HO'O LULUHI/lullabies being played to the albatross chicks...

With deep appreciation,
Michelle Schwengel-Regala

Midway: A place of Healing

Midway: A Place of Healing
By:George Hanks

Today Tracy Ammerman with the US Fish and Wildlife Service led us on a tour of the historical buildings on Sand Island from World War II. Many people think of WWII in the Pacific only as a series of battles and dates that they had to to remember in grade school. Since none of the major battles were fought on the US mainland we rarely, if ever, have daily contact with relics from this war. Things are very different here on Midway. Everywhere you turn you see places, buildings, and relics connected to the two battles of Midway, on December 7, 1941 and six months later on June 4-6, 1942. During our tour we learned the personal stories of the young men who lived, fought and often died here. We saw the mess hall where they ate, the chapel where they prayed, and the beaches where they played before the start of the war. Sitting inside now empty pill boxes overlooking the lagoon where sentries once stood waiting for the coming Japanese invasion and inside 5 inch gun emplacments where the shells from enemy ships once rained down, you are instantly transported back to the tense early months of the war. You can sense the raw emotions of the young seventeen year old sailor, armed with a surplus rifle from World War I, after being told by his superior officer to do what you can, because if the Japanese take Midway, they will take Hawaii; to do what you can because if the Japanese take Hawaii, the coast of California will be defenseless; to do what you can, because the Japanese will not take you prisoner. Young men facing the very real possibility that they would die alone, in unmarked graves, in a far away place never to see their families again. Everywhere you turn you sense the power of place.

I did not expect the feeling of peace that I also experienced during the tour at each site.The sites are still. Despite the ravages of war everywhere you look the island is slowly returning to the way it was long before we arrived. On runways where fighters once turned into the wind and flew into into the sky to defend Midway, there are now thousands of albatross chicks turned into the wind flapping their wings in unison and learning how to fly to far off seas. On beaches where Seabees dug entrenchments, there are now little sand crabs digging out their burrow homes. On the shores were once pickets stood to stop Japanese troops, a mother monk seal and her pup roll around in the surf. In pillboxes where young marines once stood guard, fairy terns and tropic birds have now made their homes. In the skies above the ironwood trees where planes off to battle in formation, fairy terns dart and swoop in pairs and then soar up hundreds of feet into the sky on the incoming wind from the lagoon. Looking at what each site has now become you get the sense that the island is healing itself from the physical trauma it has suffered. It is shaking off the effects of war like unwanted dust and once again returning the island to the home that it once was for all of its true inhabitants. At the end of the tour, I walked past a Japanese war memorial near the Clipper House with offerings from both Japanese and American veterans who attended the 68th anniversary ceremony of the Battle of Midway just a few short weeks ago. During the tour Tracy told us that you cannot heal unless you know your history. After coming to Midway, I now know what she means.